Lemon Chicken Braise with Prunes
& Olives
Serves: 4
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| Lemon Chicken Braise with Prunes & Olives |
This is a terrific easy chicken
braise which simmers on top of the stove for about 35 minutes, making it ideal
for a quick weeknight dinner. You will love the winning combination of sweet
prunes and green olives in a lemony braising liquid, which makes it distinctive
enough for an impressive dinner party.
The best cuts of chicken for
braising are the dark-meat cuts, thighs and drumsticks. Because successful
braising is all about the exchange of flavor between the braising liquid with
the meat juices, the juicier the meat, the better tasting the braise. Since
thighs and drumsticks contain more fat and collagen than the white-meat
breasts, they are tastier when braised. Another important aspect in this recipe
is the use of bone-in chicken. As much as it may speed things up in the kitchen
to cook chicken off the bone, what you gain in time, you lose in flavor. Bone-in
chicken, like all meat cooked on the bone, will retain more of its flavorful
juices. As for the skin, it protects the meat from drying out during braising,
especially during the browning step. The layer of fat beneath the skin also
adds richness and flavor.
One of the biggest challenges when
braising chicken and other poultry is preventing the skin from becoming flabby
and unappetizing in the moist heat of a closed pot. The best solution is to be
especially patient and thorough when browning chicken before braising. Another detail to watch is the amount of
braising liquid. Avoid submerging the pieces completely in the liquid as it can
leave the skin soggy. Ideally, there will be just enough liquid to come to
where the skin meets the flesh.
- ½ C brined green olives – such as Picholine, Lucques or Calif. Green
- 4 skin-on, bone-in chicken thighs
- 6 skin-on chicken drumsticks
- Coarse salt & freshly ground pepper
- ½C all-purpose flour
- 2 Tb extra-virgin olive oil
- 1 C dry white wine or dry white vermouth
- ¼ C white wine vinegar
- 1 large garlic clove, peeled & smashed
- 1 preserved lemon, rinsed, pulp removed and finely chopped (For instructions on preserved lemons, see recipe for Israeli Couscous with Roasted Butternut Squash, posted 9/24/12)
- 6 strips lemon zest (about 2½ inches x ¾ inch) if preserved lemon unavailable
- 2 whole cloves
- ¾ C plump-pitted prunes
- ½ C chicken broth, optional
If the olives are not pitted, remove
the pits by smashing the olives one at a time with side of a large knife, the
slipping the pits out. If any flesh remains on the pit slice it off with the
knife. If the only prunes you can find are dry and leathery, you will want to
soak them overnight in room-temperature or slightly warm water to plum them up.
Place them in a small bowl and pour water over to cover. Let the prunes sit
until they are moist and plump, 8-12 hours if needed.
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| Prunes for the braise |
Rinse the 4 skin-on bone-in chicken thighs and 6 skin-on chicken drumsticks
in cool water, and dry thoroughly with paper towels. Generously season all over
with salt and pepper. Spread ½ C all
purpose flour in a pie plate, and dredge half the chicken pieces one at a
time, placing each one in the flour, turning to coat both sides, and then
lifting it out and patting lightly to shake off any excess.
 |
| Floured chicken |
 |
| Browned chicken |
Pour off the fat from the pan and
quickly wipe out any black specks with a damp paper towel, being careful to
leave behind any browned bits. Add 1 C
dry wine, ¼ C white wine vinegar, 1 smashed garlic clove, chopped lemon
preserve or 6 strips lemon zest and 2 whole cloves to the skillet and sir
with a wooden spoon to scape up those prized bits stuck to the bottom of the
skillet. As soon as all combined, return the chicken pieces to the skillet,
arranging them so they fit in a snug single layer. Pour any juices that have
accumulated on the plate. Scatter over the ¾
C plumped pitted prunes and ½ C pitted green olives. Cover tightly, and
reduce heat to low. Braise at a gentle simmer, basting occasionally and turning
the pieces with thongs halfway through, until the chicken is tender and pulls
easily from the bone, about 30-40 minutes. When you lift the lid to baste,
check to see that the liquid is simmering quietly; if it is simmering too
vigorously, reduce the heat or place a heat diffuser under the skillet.
Using a slotted spoon or tongs, transfer
the chicken to a platter. If you wish to crisp up the chicken skin, place the
pieces in a hot, 475 degree F oven for about 5 min. Meanwhile, skim any visible
surface fat from the sauce with a metal spoon. Raise the heat under the skillet
to high, and reduce the pan juices for 2-3 minutes to concentrate their flavor.
Adjust sauce consistency with reduction or thinning with additional water or
chicken broth as discussed below pending accompaniments. Taste for salt and
pepper. Retrieve and discard the cloves and zest. Pour juices over the chicken
and serve.
This entrée can be served with
mashed potatoes, a potato gratin, or, as I have done, on buttered egg noodles. The
sauce is thick and flavorful so it could easily standalone with some green
vegetables alongside. It is easy to thin the sauce with the addition of chicken
broth if you wanted more to drape over mashed potatoes. This would pair well
with a medium body wine with youthful fruit and a touch of mineral flavor such
as an Alsace Pinot Gris, or Pinot Blanc or Oregon Pinot Gris. If red wines are
your preference try a light Chianti or an Oregon Pinot Noir.
If you wanted a more rustic look,
you could substitute red wine and red wine vinegar for their white counterparts
and use orange or tangerine zest in place of lemon and black olives in place of
green. (Nicoise for example) Try them
both and see which you prefer!
Bon Appetit!
Larue
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